Domaine Albert Boxler Gewurztraminer Reserve

點(diǎn)擊次數(shù)：1988

Boxler’s 2009 Gewurztraminer Reserve comes strictly from his oldest vines on chalky sites (Faller, Heimbourg, and Boland) as the juice from all of his younger parcels of Gewurztraminer was sold-off. Sweet pea, cinnamon, quince and litchi on the nose anticipate the confitured cast of a lush, unabashedly sweet palate, with (some might say “all-too-”) typical suggestions of overripe musk melon entering into a finish admirably persistent and juicy finish. I find it hard to guess “how long this will live” but I would be inclined to drink it over the next 5-7 years as I certainly don’t foresee it holding out past the point where its superficial sense of sweetness begins to diminish. Jean Boxler relates that in 2009 he picked some parcels of young wines early due to stress, then sold off the juice; and any under 15 years’ age he didn’t even bother to pick. Eventually, when he harvested his older vines and best sites, the sugar levels were the same – but not the flavors. He deftly charted a course with most of the resulting wines between alcohol and residual sugar, but to the extent it was unavoidable, sinned on the side of sweetness. From 2008, almost predictably given the track record at this address, Boxler rendered sharply focused, minerally complex, yet seductively fruit-filled wines that should prove excellent both as keepers and as partners with cuisine. Boxler compares these wines with his 2002s and finds then “definitely more interesting than the 2001s.” While most of the 2008s finished fermenting already by Christmas – which is par for the course chez Boxler – he points out that several of the extraordinary wines from the Brand lingered into spring. (For some detail on among other things Boxler’s different Riesling parcels, see my report in issue 188.)Importer: Robert Chadderdon Selections, New York, NY; tel. (212) 757-8185

Tasting Celery seed, clove, and black pepper pungently scent Boxler’s 2008 Gewurztraminer Reserve and then accent a subtly oily, silken, and sweet palate whose litchi and Persian melon are sprinkled with sugared almond and nutmeg, and suffused with saliva-inducing salinity. This strong salinity and (for Gewurztraminer) high acidity make for an impressively next sip-enticing finish that manages even to refresh and invigorate as well as to counteract any tendency of residual sugar to fatigue. Boxler believes that the portion of young vines included here added finesse and helped open up this lovely flower of a wine. You won’t often taste a better “generic” Alsace Gewurztraminer, that’s for sure, though there is no point acquiring this if you haven’t desire for sweet wine. I would anticipate at least a 10-12 year performance run. Jean Boxler relates that in 2009 he picked some parcels of young wines early due to stress, then sold off the juice; and any under 15 years’ age he didn’t even bother to pick. Eventually, when he harvested his older vines and best sites, the sugar levels were the same – but not the flavors. He deftly charted a course with most of the resulting wines between alcohol and residual sugar, but to the extent it was unavoidable, sinned on the side of sweetness. From 2008, almost predictably given the track record at this address, Boxler rendered sharply focused, minerally complex, yet seductively fruit-filled wines that should prove excellent both as keepers and as partners with cuisine. Boxler compares these wines with his 2002s and finds then “definitely more interesting than the 2001s.” While most of the 2008s finished fermenting already by Christmas – which is par for the course chez Boxler – he points out that several of the extraordinary wines from the Brand lingered into spring. (For some detail on among other things Boxler’s different Riesling parcels, see my report in issue 188.)Importer: Robert Chadderdon Selections, New York, NY; tel. (212) 757-8185

Boxler’s 2005 Gewurztraminer Reserve offers scents of rose petal, celery seed, and clove. With a lovely and unusual sense of delicacy and refinement for this variety, it comes onto the palate featuring honey and rose petal with low-toned coffee-mocha and caramelized parsnip and celery root, and finishing a tad sweet though not imbalanced in and of itself. (Where to employ it at table would be my question.) The domaine of Albert Boxler – where son Jean has been calling the shots for several years now – has long exhibited a consistency and quality that very few other wineries in France – much less Alsace – can equal, and that is demonstrated not just by their superb results with “noble” varieties in less than easy vintages, but already at the ostensibly “l(fā)ow end” of the varietal spectrum, where one can only wish there were more estates rendering wines of such delicious distinction. (Inexplicably, Boxler did not offer me a taste of his Chasselas or his Muscat – both of which can often be outstanding of their sort – and after this occurred to me, I was too pressed for time to make up for the omission at the end of our session.)Importer: Robert Chadderdon Selections, New York, NY; tel. (212) 757-8185