Jeandeau's 2020 Viré-Clessé is very pretty, bursting with aromas of orange oil, citrus blossom, pears and honeysuckle. Medium-bodied, satiny and vibrant, with racy acids and a penetrating, gently musky finish, it's already drinking well.

The 2019 Viré-Clessé opens in the glass with notes of pear, fresh bread, clear honey and white flowers. Medium to full-bodied, satiny and precise, with good depth at the core and a penetrating, saline finish, it was vinified exclusively in older barrels this year since yields were so low.

The 2018 Viré-Clessé has turned out nicely, unfurling in the glass with a classy bouquet of fresh peach, orange oil and golden orchard fruit. Medium to full-bodied, fleshy but precise, it's lively and fine-boned, displaying an unusually elegant, delicate style for this frequently muscular appellation.

Aromas of citrus blossom, fresh peach, pears and warm pastry introduce Jeandeau's 2017 Viré-Clessé, a medium to full-bodied, lively and precise wine that's elegantly textural but decidedly incisive by the standards of the appellation. With time in the glass, musky nuances emerge, hinting at the presence of some muscaté selections of Chardonnay; Jeandeau opts to raise these in tank, while the remaining two-thirds are vinified in barrel. Since he didn't produce his cuvée "Hors de Temps" this year, all the juice went into this, the regular cuvée.

Aromas of fresh peaches, white flowers and almond paste introduce the 2016 Viré-Clessé, a medium to full-bodied, elegantly textural wine with good depth and concentration, concluding with a fragrant finish. It's a fine-boned rendition of the appellation that likely owes some of its aromatic qualities to some muscaté selections of Chardonnay that Jeandeau tells me are planted in this parcel.