The dark-colored 1999 Pinot Noir Octagon Vineyard is similar to a French Pommard offering notions of apple skins intermixed with dried herbs, meat, and black cherries, a soft, ripe attack, but an austere, tannic, angular finish with noticeable acidity.(Release date, 10/02)Tel. (707) 823-2378; Fax (707) 823-0918

The Pinot Noir that comes from the vineyard surrounding the spooky looking house at the top of the knoll overlooking Dehlinger's winery is called Octagon. The 1997 is a terrific effort that should drink well for 6-8 years. This big, boldly-styled, rich wine exhibits a dark ruby/purple color as well as copious quantities of cherry liqueur, roasted meats, dried herbs, spice, and chocolate. Explosive on the palate, with Dehlinger's impressive glycerin, concentration, and fruit extraction, this is another crowd-pleasing, sumptuous Pinot Noir to enjoy now and over the next 7-8 years. Production was 390 cases. (release date 3/00)Tel. (707) 823-2378; Fax (707) 823-0918

The 1996 Pinot Noir Octagon Vineyard is the most limited of Dehlinger's current Pinot Noirs in availability. It offers up a fabulous nose of jammy strawberries, cherries, a touch of prunes, roasted meat smells, and spicy oak. Full-bodied, with considerable glycerin and extract, and a dense, lush, voluptuously-textured finish, it should drink well for 5-6 years.Visitors should note that the Octagon Vineyard is the vineyard that surrounds the spooky-looking house that is a dead-ringer for the Bates Motel in Alfred Hitchcock's classic movie, Psycho.Dehlinger is a top-notch albeit somewhat unheralded source for delicious Pinot Noir. While some of the new Dijon clones have been planted (particularly Clone 777), Dehlinger's Pinots are all from such old California clones (which originally came from Burgundy) as Martini, Swan, and Pommard. There can be as many as four separate Pinot Noirs if Dehlinger decides to produce a Reserve bottling, as he did in 1994 and 1997. In 1996, there are three efforts, Goldridge Vineyard (1,150 cases), Estate (990 cases), and Octagon Vineyard (140 cases). What is so likable about the Dehlinger Pinot Noirs is that they are made in a richly fruity, chocolatey style with plenty of spice, plush textures, and copious quantities of glycerin and alcohol. They are both user-friendly and faithful to the varietal's trademark.Release date 3/99.Tel. (707) 823-2378; Fax (707) 823-0918.