Dehlinger's superb 1992 Chardonnay Montrachet Cuvee possesses superb intensity and length, as well as that distinctive mineral character found in certain Burgundian vineyards, particularly the Perrieres vineyard in Meursault and the Montrachet vineyard shared by the villages of Puligny-Montrachet and Chassagne-Montrachet. This wine exhibits full body, splendid concentration, vibrant acidity, and a well-delineated, large-scaled finish. A knock-out Chardonnay, it should be drunk over the next 1-2 years.Tel. (707) 823-2378.

Dehlinger's two 1990 Chardonnays differ considerably in style. The Montrachet Cuvee is a more ambitious effort than the Russian River - richer in the nose, much more structured on the palate, with more intensity and a backward feel. While it is slightly better, the difference in price is not totally justified.