The Reserve Pinot Noir is made in only the finest vintages, and the 1997 Pinot Noir Reserve (450 cases) is tight and backward. It possesses low acidity, outstanding concentration and purity, abundant black cherry, plum, and meaty characteristics. There is exciting fruit and overall symmetry, but this effort needs 1-2 years of bottle age because of its more noticeable structure and higher tannin level. It cuts a bold swath across the palate, and has lots of substance, but it needs more time. Anticipated maturity: 2001-2010. (release date 10/00)Tel. (707) 823-2378; Fax (707) 823-0918

The 1994 Pinot Noirs, which I enthusiastically rated earlier this year, are all available in the marketplace, or through the winery's mailing list. They are gorgeous Pinots that have a high quality/value ratio. The 1994 Pinot Noir Reserve (500 cases produced), the most structured and closed of these offerings, had only been in bottle for a month when I tasted it. It appears to be another exceptional ripe, rich, concentrated, dense, complex, and expansively- flavored Pinot Noir that needs 2-6 months of bottle age. It has a 30-35 second finish, as well as exceptional purity and personality.

Dehlinger's current Pinot Noir releases include the 1992 Pinot Noir Estate and 1992 Estate Reserve. Both merit considerable consumer interest. Dehlinger, who utilizes whole berry fermentation, seems to obtain that wonderful, rich Pinot fruit without the tannic overlay that can sometimes be excessive. The more backward, deeper 1992 Pinot Noir Estate Reserve reveals a saturated ruby color, a sensational nose of black-cherries, full body, considerable glycerin, a multi-layered feel on the palate, and a lush, intensely-concentrated finish with no hard edges. It is a beautifully made Pinot that can be drunk now and over the next 6-7 years.This winery has always had a loyal following because they offer fine wines at realistic prices. However, the Pinot Noirs have jumped significantly in quality in recent vintages. Moreover, they remain modestly-priced by the standards of high quality American Pinot Noir. It almost goes without saying that by the standards of high quality red Burgundy, these wines are available for a song.Tel. (707) 823-2378