La Togata makes several expressions of Brunello plus this Riserva. The 2012 Brunello di Montalcino Riserva is thin and lean in texture. The bouquet is redolent of cherry and dark fruit, although the ensemble lacks precision and focus.

An oddball, this offers sour wild berry fruit, iron and graphite notes and dense, dusty tannins. Seems more closed than a freak show, though this does turn a little murky and leafy on the dry finish. Best from 2019 through 2033. 350 cases made, 200 cases imported.??–BS??Region: Italy / Brunello di Montalcino Select to Add

The 2004 Brunello di Montalcino Riserva is a touch darker and richer than the regular bottling, although it, too, remains a bit on the slender side. The fruit is layered nicely, with perfumed black cherries, plums, licorice, new leather and menthol, all of which swirl together nicely in the glass. The finish is long and pure, with just enough intensity to balance the tannins on the close. This is one of the more accessible 2004 Riservas readers are likely to encounter. Anticipated maturity: 2010-2019. Importer: Panebianco LLC, New York, NY; tel. (212) 685-7560

Made in limited quantities, this austere Riserva exhibits aged tones of dried blackberries and currants, exotic spice, tar, cola and powdered licorice. There’s great freshness here that helps propel the wine over the palate. ——M.L.(10/1/2010)—— 91