A wine that has changed through the years and seems to have achieved its more elegant version is the 2013 Coma d'En Pou, a pale, fragrant, Pinot Noir-like subtle blend of Garnacha with 31% Syrah and 4% Cabernet Sauvignon. It feels very Mediterranean with plenty or herbs and a light to medium-bodied palate with very good acidity and freshness and refined tannins. I've always had a soft spot for this unusual red, which in 2013 is really outstanding.

The 2012 Coma d'en Pou produced from a ripe, warm and short vintage, is a blend of Garnacha with 17% Syrah and 1% Cabernet (which is surprising, as the Cabernet would be something like 15 liters in total!) that fermented in a combination of stainless steel vats and open barrels. It matured in 400-liter oak barrels for 16 months. It has a balsamic nose with aromas of Mediterranean herbs a touch of cocoa along with plenty of red berries and wild flowers making it very attractive and heady Mediterranean elixir. The palate is medium-bodied with very fine tannins and moderate acidity, though plenty of oak flavors are still present. These should be absorbed with some more time in bottle. A serious Mediterranean red. 2,052 bottles were produced.

The 2010 Coma d’En Pou’s extremely balsamic nose jumps out of the glass with aromas of dried herbs and spices that remind me of vermouth over a core of ripe red fruits with a great sense of harmony and elegance. It is produced with a blend of 55% Garnacha complemented with Syrah and Cabernet Sauvignon and aged in 400-liter French oak barrels. It feels like the bigger volume oak containers are the way to go in warmer Mediterranean climates, as the oak seems to be perfectly integrated into the wine. It’s hard to believe the wine is 15% alcohol, as it drinks extremely well, it’s refreshing and the tannins are round and velvety. A great elegant Mediterranean red. Drink 2014-2020. Barbara Fores traces its roots back to 1898 and owns 22 hectares of vineyards averaging 20 years of age, but the plot El Quinta has 65-year-old vines. Nowadays they produce 60,000 bottles of well-crafted, reliable bottles per year. Importer: Aviva Vino, New York, NY; tel. (212) 244-4495, www.avivavino.com

The 2009 Coma d’En Pou is a blend of 44% Garnacha, 42% Syrah and 14% Cabernet Sauvignon aged in 40% new oak. It has an agreeable, spicy bouquet with vibrant blackberry and forest floor aromas. The palate is full-bodied, with smooth, velvety tannins married with crisp acidity. The finish is not as complex as the nose suggests, with straightforward blackberry, raspberry and soy aromas. I would have liked greater persistency. But it is still well-made and should offer satisfactory short-term drinking pleasure. Barbara Fores was actually the great great grandmother of current proprietors, Carme Ferrer and Manuel Sanmartin. Their 45-hectare estate includes 22 hectares under vine that is farmed organically, and the wines are mostly aged in Allier French oak. I tasted two wines from their portfolio, currently distributed in the U.S. Importer: Aviva Vino, New York, NY; tel. (212) 244-4495

The 2006 Coma d’En Pou is made up of 40% Syrah, 35% Garnacha, and 25% Cabernet Sauvignon with malolactic fermentation and aging for 16 months in new French oak. It displays aromas of tar, licorice, black cherry, and blackberry leading to a full-bodied, smooth-textured, suave, layered offering with 2-3 years of aging potential, excellent concentration, and a lengthy finish. It will provide considerable enjoyment through 2021. Importer: Aviva Vino, New York, NY; tel. (212) 244-4495