The top wine from Fattorie Romeo del Castello is its 2016 Etna Rosso Vigo, and this bottle is held back for two more years of aging before its commercial release. There is a lot of fluid complexity and depth here, and new sides of the wine come into view with each swirl of the glass. The organic wine is fresh and tonic with interchanging aromas of wild rose, blue flower, cassis and dried herb. The mineral nuance and the wine's dryness are downplayed in the 2016 vintage. Instead, it offers substantial fruit weight and extra volume that builds the fruity, or more buoyant, aromatic profile of this terrific red. If this offering of 3,400 bottles were a stock, any good analyst would put it down as a strong buy.

This is a phenomenal wine from an Etna estate that is well worth your attention. The 2014 Etna Rosso Vigo starts off slow, but it definitely builds in momentum and intensity as you swirl the wine in your glass. This is one of the most gracious characteristics of a quality Etna red. These are shape-shifter wines. They show a fluid evolution and excellent permanence on the senses. Red berries, spice, tar, smoke and crushed mineral conspire to build in strength. This is 90% Nerello Mascalese with 10% Nerello Cappuccio and the wine is aged in oak for 12 months.

The 2013 Etna Rosso Vigo is one of my darling wines of this year's Etna tasting. The wine is 95% Nerello Mascalese with a tiny part Nerello Cappuccio that is fermented in steel and later aged in wood for one year. The delivery is steady and even with delicate pulses of wild berry, spice and dark mineral. I love the sense of balance here and the vigor of the mouthfeel. Crisp acidity and firm tannins give the wine a solid base. I would suggest waiting a few more years before opening this bottle. It should continue its evolution over the course of the next decade.

The 2013 vintage of this wine gave me hope for a long aging future. But the 2007 Etna Rosso Vigo is showing signs of wear and tear. The wine is slightly past its prime now with a browning hue and aromas of cured meat, old spice and candied fruit. The tannins are raspy and textured. This was the first year that Vigo was produced and happily this estate has shown an encouraging growing curve over the past six years. Only 4,000 bottles were produced. If you have a bottle, drink it now.