The 2008 Sant’Antimo Rosso Ombrone is a revelation. A blend of 53% Cabernet Sauvignon, 30% Merlot and 17% Sangiovese, the wine reveals layers of dark plum, graphite, minerals and herbs, all supported by a firm tannic spine. Menthol, new leather and licorice add complexity on the finish. I am not the biggest fan of internationally styled wines in Montalcino, but the Ombrone is undoubtedly first class. Anticipated maturity: 2014-2022. I have been an admirer of Cupano for many years, but a recent visit was my first. It won’t be my last. This tiny winery sits in one of the most strikingly beautiful, picturesque spots in all of Montalcino, with breathtaking views in all directions. Ornella and Lionel Cousin farm their vineyards biodynamically. Work in the cellar is equally non-interventionalist. The wines are neither fined nor filtered prior to bottling. Cupano favors a flashy, up-front style with generous fruit and at times lavish oak. As good as the wines are young, the real surprise is just how well they develop in bottle. Importer: Tosco Wines Inc., Richmond, CA; tel. (510) 232-7400