It isn’t Hermitage, but it’s clean, fruity and pleasant, in a rustic sort of way. Five dollars is the suggested retail price, but you can probably find it for even less. Sharp in grapey-jammy black cherries and mocha, and fully dry, it’s the kind of inexpensive house red that millions of Americans depend on. Kudos to Bronco Wine Co., which makes this and other value brands, including Two Buck Chuck.——S.H.(11/15/2006)—— 84