Tons of smoky, vanilla-tinged oak has been plastered over a wine whose underlying flavors are of blackcurrants and cassis. The result is pleasing to the palate, with a level of complexity enhanced by rich tannins. This supple wine is best consumed early.——S.H.(4/1/2004)—— 90

Plenty of oak here, in the smoky, charry aromas. Below is a somewhat closed, austere wine. Earthy, mushroomy aromas show now, and there may not be enough fruit to carry it through the long haul. Yet it's beautifully structured, with lush tannins and crisp acids. The right foods will wake it up. ——S.H.(12/31/2001)—— 87