Corte Sant’Alda presents a fine 2011 Recioto della Valpolicella with lingering tones of spice, mesquite and saddle leather that mingle with brighter aromas of candied cherry and blackberry syrup. The wine is dense and thick, with high levels of dry extract. It sits heavy on the palate. There’s a note of sour astringency that stills needs to settle. Drink 2015-2020. Corte Sant’Alda is a flagship estate that makes some of the most opulent and age-worthy wines in Valpolicella. Marinella Camerani and her family farm according to biodynamic principles (they are Demeter-certified), and she likes to remind her visitors that olive and cherry groves are also a big part of the estate identity. Hers is a sustainable azienda agricola (“farming estate”), not just a vineyard, with a 360-degree perspective on all themes related to the land. The distinctive personality of the wines, and the consistent high quality make Corte Sant’Alda an important addition to anyone who collects fine Amarone. Importer: Domaine Select Wine Estates, www.domaineselect.com

The 2003 Recioto reveals a restrained personality. It possesses plenty of sweet, explosive fruit in a personality that manages to be opulent yet well-balanced at the same time. Today the tannins are big and building, suggesting further bottle age will be beneficial. Anticipated maturity: 2010-2020. Importer: Domaine Select, New York, NY; tel. (212) 279-0799

The 2000 Recioto della Valpolicella manages to balance a lush sweetness, important concentration, and much density with shape, freshness, and flair. A rich but stylish example of this wine, it will drink well between 2004 and 2015. Marinella Camerani, assisted in the winemaking by professor Roberto Ferrarini of the University of Verona, has made major strides in improving the quality of her wines in recent years, and the line is now in the top echelon of the Valpolicella. No known American importer