The 2012 Valpolicella Ca’ Fiui shows a wild and untamed personality that distinguishes this wine in a crowd. Forest berry, dried raspberry, dried rosemary or oregano and a touch of curry leaf give brightness and buoyancy to the bouquet. In the mouth, the wine offers a compact, streamlined feel. Organic fruit is inoculated with indigenous yeasts. Drink 2013-2016. Corte Sant’Alda is a flagship estate that makes some of the most opulent and age-worthy wines in Valpolicella. Marinella Camerani and her family farm according to biodynamic principles (they are Demeter-certified), and she likes to remind her visitors that olive and cherry groves are also a big part of the estate identity. Hers is a sustainable azienda agricola (“farming estate”), not just a vineyard, with a 360-degree perspective on all themes related to the land. The distinctive personality of the wines, and the consistent high quality make Corte Sant’Alda an important addition to anyone who collects fine Amarone. Importer: Domaine Select Wine Estates, www.domaineselect.com

The 2010 Valpolicella Ca’ Fiui is a delicious wine to drink now and over the next few years, while the fruit remains vibrant and vinous. Sweet red berries, flowers and spices linger on the juicy finish. This is a gorgeous wine for the money. Anticipated maturity: 2012-2015. Proprietor Marinella Camerani can be counted on for wines of true character and personality. Organic farming and minimal handling in the cellar are some of the core principles that inform the house style at Corte Sant’Alda.Importer: Domaine Select, New York, NY; tel. (212) 279-0799

The 2009 Valpolicella Ca’ Fiui is a fresh, vinous red perfect for drinking over the near-term. It possesses unusual finesse at this level along with a joyous, open personality that makes it a joy to taste. Anticipated maturity: 2011-2014. This is a sublime set of wines from Corte Sant’Alda. The estate has made notable wines for some time, but this year I was especially struck by the elegance of the entire range. Importer: Domaine Select, New York, NY; tel. (212) 279-0799

The 2008 Valpolicella Ca’ Fiui is an absolutely delicious red loaded with perfumed raspberries, flowers and spices. This accessible, well-balanced wine offers terrific quality for the money and is one of the finest Valpolicellas in its price range. Ideally the wine is best enjoyed while the fruit is fresh. Anticipated maturity: 2009-2012. Corte Sant’Alda and proprietor, Marinella Camerani excel with bold, powerful Valpolicellas and Amarones. Camerani was among the producers who decided against bottling an Amarone in 2005, but readers will find much to admire here, especially the 2006 Valpolicellas, which are beautiful.Importer: Domaine Select, New York, NY; tel. (212) 279-0799

The 2007 Valpolicella Ca’Fiui is an absolutely beautiful, perfumed wine from Veneto. Silky tannins frame a core of red raspberries all the way through to the long finish. This, too, is an elegant and refined wine, especially at this level. Anticipated maturity: 2009-2012. Importer: Domaine Select, New York, NY; tel. (212) 279-0799