Exhibiting immense aromatic richness, the 2004 Pouilly-Fuisse Vers Pouilly explodes from the glass with salted butter scents. A big, broad, medium to full-bodied wine, it coats the taster’s palate with pears, minerals, smoke, apples, and hazelnuts that linger in its impressively long finish. Drink it over the next 4-5 years. “This was a difficult vintage, no doubt,” said Christophe Cordier, “We never stopped working for an instant.” He went on to add that even though the July 20 hail storm devastated some of his best parcels (there is no Pouilly-Fuisse Metertiere in 2004, for example), “We were still luckier than our friends in the Cote de Beaune because here in the south we actually got some sun and warmth at times.” Cordier did two harvests in his Pouilly-Fuisse vineyards, declassifying the first fruit that was picked to make a Macon-Fuisse and only using the results of his second, later harvests for his Pouilly-Fuisses. In addition, Cordier sorted through all the clusters, throwing out all the ones damaged by hail or oidium.Various American importers including Weygandt-Metzler, Peter Weygandt, Unionville, PA; tel. (610) 486-0800

Produced from a parcel Cordier is shifting to biodynamic viticulture, the 2002 Pouilly-Fuisse Vers Pouilly was harvested at 15% natural potential alcohol and then fermented as well as aged in 100% new oak. Its intense spice aromas lead to a light to medium-bodied, silky-textured character. This syrup of minerals also displays flavors of spices and herbal teas. No oak flavors can be found in its precise, well-delineated, lengthy personality. Drink it over the next 6 years. Importer: Weygandt-Metzler, Peter Weygandt, Unionville, PA; tel. (610) 486-0800