An excellent vintage and an excellent cru (Cerequio is one of Barolo’s best) join forces here to produce a balanced, elegant wine. Aged hues of garnet and amber are enhanced by ethereal tones of wet earth, licorice, road tar, anise and dried fruit. The aromas are doled out in a measured, controlled fashion and the wine ends with dusty, ash-like notes. It’s ready to drink.——M.L.(4/1/2009)—— 93