At 2,100 feet, this comes from one of the highest vineyards in Portugal, in the central mountains. Wood-aged, it shows spice, vanilla and rich fruit from the local Siria grape, which has flavors that are reminiscent of Chardonnay. There are fine apple and pear flavors, followed by a long, ripe aftertaste. ——R.V.(11/1/2008)—— 90