Intoxicating scents of ripe plums, dried spices and dark chocolate emerge on the nose of the 2019 Chateauneuf du Pape Vieilles Vignes, a rich, full-bodied effort that's undeniably impressive as a pre-bottling sample. Dense and concentrated, it somehow manages to retain a sense of freshness, perhaps the influence of the long, anise-tinged finish.

The 2018 Chateauneuf du Pape Vieilles Vignes shows the same exotic stone fruit notes as the regular bottling but seems just that little bit creamier-silkier in feel. Full-bodied and plush, it still has the requisite acidity for balance, finishing on vibrant notes of black cherries dipped in dark chocolate laced with orange zest.

The 2017 Chateauneuf du Pape Vieilles Vignes starts off with scents of tapenade, then adds ripe cherries and cola notes. Dark and concentrated, it's full-bodied and open-knit, perhaps a bit coarser than the elegant 2016, with a touch of chocolate on the long finish. The Grenache in this cuvée was planted in 1905, making this a relative value among old-vine offerings.

The assemblage for the 2016 Chateauneuf du Pape Vieilles Vignes is the same as for the "regular" Chateauneuf-du-Pape, at 75% Grenache, 15% Syrah and the rest a blend of Cinsault, Mourvèdre and Vaccarèse. The difference is that the Grenache in this wine was planted in 1905. And what a difference that makes. This is dark, plummy and rich but still vibrant and fresh. Full-bodied, velvety and intense, it boasts a super finish, again loaded with intriguing notes of licorice and spice. At around $50 (I've seen it online for as little as $40 to $45), this is a superb value in the overall scheme of CdP.

A special cuvée produced for the American importer, Eric Solomon, the 2015 Chateauneuf du Pape Vieilles Vignes is huge. It blends 85% or more concrete-aged Grenache with small amounts of Syrah and Mourvèdre aged in barrique. The result is a massive wine filled with red fruit. The tannins are ripe to the point of creaminess on the mid-palate then firm up on the long finish. This hides its alcohol better than the regular cuvée and should age longer as a result.