Offering up notes of green orchard fruit, citrus and toasted nuts, the 2016 Chardonnay Ethos Reserve is medium-bodied, supple and succulent, with nice cut and purity but without the concentration or depth to justify the premium it commands.

More fresh and steely than the Canoe Ridge Estate Chardonnay, the 2015 Chardonnay Ethos Reserve is Chablis-like with its lemony fruit, white flowers and hints of crushed rock aromas and flavors. Drink this medium-bodied, racy, lively white over the coming 2-3 years.

The clear standout is the brilliant 2014 Chardonnay Ethos Reserve, which comes from a number of sites in the Columbia Valley and saw a completely native fermentation followed by nine months in 41% new French oak. Medium-bodied, supple, textured and rich, with ample stone fruits, buttered citrus, brioche and a touch of white flowers, it has tons to love and should keep for 2-3 years.

Up with some of the best Chardonnay’s from Washington, the 2013 Chardonnay Ethos Reserve has impressive, flinty minerality to go with lots of white flowers, apple blossom and hints of toastiness. Medium-bodied, classically styled, with a slight Burgundian feel to its acid and texture, it has solid richness and a clean finish. Coming from the estate’s Canoe Ridge and Cold Creek vineyards and aged in 36% new French oak (the balance is once and twice used), it needs 6 months or so of bottle age and will drink nicely through 2020.