The opaque black-colored 1990 Cuvee Syrah offers an extraordinary perfume of hickory wood, chocolate, cassis, and black fruits, staggering richness, astonishing opulence, plenty of alcohol, and gobs of tannin. I suspect this massive wine will need at least 10 years of cellaring to reach its zenith. A dazzling effort, this wine does require discipline, as it must be cellared, unless it is consumed by masochists. Imported by Martine's Wines, San Rafael, CA; tel. (415) 485-1800, Wines of France, Alain Junguenet, Mountainside, NJ; tel. (908) 654-6173, and Ideal Wines, Medford, MA; tel. (617) 395-3300

The 1989 Cuvee Syrah is similar to the 1990, exhibiting exceptional intensity, a black/ruby/purple color, a huge perfume of black-raspberries, and a whoppingly long, moderately tannic finish. Typically, it is extracted, large-scaled, and capable of lasting for another 20+ years. Impressive! Imported by Martine's Wines, San Rafael, CA; tel. (415) 485-1800, Wines of France, Alain Junguenet, Mountainside, NJ; tel. (908) 654-6173, and Ideal Wines, Medford, MA; tel. (617) 395-3300

The 1988 Cuvee Syrah is a riveting wine, with a splendid dark ruby/purple color, a spicy Provencal herb and super-ripe cassis-scented bouquet, highly extracted flavors, and a rich, full-bodied, velvety texture; it needs at least 8-12 more years of evolution. Imported by Martine's Wines, San Rafael, CA; tel. (415) 485-1800, Wines of France, Alain Junguenet, Mountainside, NJ; tel. (908) 654-6173, and Ideal Wines, Medford, MA; tel. (617) 395-3300

A backward, soft, inky/purple-colored wine, the 1985 Cuvee Syrah remains monolithic and unevolved. Tasted blind, it could easily be mistaken for a barrel sample from a recent vintage. It is still thick and juicy, with tremendous quantities of black fruits, particularly cassis, but there are no signs of evolution. Owners are advised to either drink it (if you like grapy, exuberant, uncomplicated, mouthfilling red wines), or give it another 2-6 years of cellaring and hope more complexity will emerge from this big, beefy wine. Imported by Martine's Wines, San Rafael, CA; tel. (415) 485-1800, Wines of France, Alain Junguenet, Mountainside, NJ; tel. (908) 654-6173, and Ideal Wines, Medford, MA; tel. (617) 395-3300

An unqualified success for the vintage, this saturated dark ruby/purple-colored wine remains an infant in terms of its development. Still thick, juicy, intense, and full-bodied, with few signs of development, this structured, broad-flavored, sweet, jammy Syrah will benefit from another 4-5 years of cellaring. A weighty, husky wine, it has another 15-20 years of aging potential. Imported by Martine's Wines, San Rafael, CA; tel. (415) 485-1800, Wines of France, Alain Junguenet, Mountainside, NJ; tel. (908) 654-6173, and Ideal Wines, Medford, MA; tel. (617) 395-3300