The 2009 Rayas Chateauneuf du Pape Blanc (a blend of equal parts Clairette and Grenache Blanc aged in tank) is remarkable. A stunning perfume of nectarines, white peaches and honeysuckle is followed by a full-bodied, thick, juicy, viscous wine with good acidity and freshness. This concentrated, profound, amazing white may possibly last 20-30 years. One of the world's most mysterious estates is Chateau Rayas. This small 30-acre estate is owned by the Reynaud family, which dates back to the late 19th century,. The estate has always had an image of secrecy and seclusion. Following the death of Jacques Reynaud in 1997, his nephew, Emmanuel took over, and he continues to produce wines that go from strength to strength. A cool climate property in a hot zone, Rayas is tucked away in a forest with its vineyards basically one parcel of sandy soil. Emmanuel Reynaud, who is also the proprietor of the outstanding Vacqueyras estate called Domaine des Tours, has the same eccentric idiosyncracies as his uncle. It is not as difficult to get an appointment to visit Rayas as many people think, and I highly recommend it as it is always a fascinating place to visit. After 25 years, I never cease to be amazed by what emerges from these decrepit, old, haphazard cellars that look like a biohazard room in a video game. They don-t win the top prize for the dirtiest cellars in Chateauneuf du Pape (that goes to Henri Bonneau), but Rayas is a close second. Modern-day oenology graduates would be horrified by -working conditions,- but the magic elixirs to emerge from these ancient barrels, demi-muids and foudres are wondrous. On this trip, I tasted through the component parts of the 2010s, another top vintage for Rayas. Production was tiny, and the harvest was extremely late. In fact, Emmanuel Reynaud told me that 2011 would be at least ten days in advance of 2010. The 2009s, which have all been bottled, have turned out to be spectacular, and I tend to think the 2009 Rayas could turn out to be the greatest wine made by Emmanuel, even eclipsing the 2007.Importer: Martine's Wines, Novato, CA; tel. (415) 883-0400

The 2007 Rayas Chateauneuf du Pape blanc has turned out to be fabulous. One of the strongest vintages I have yet tasted of this tank-aged blend of equal parts Grenache Blanc and Clairette, it is a flowery white offering notions of honeyed citrus and pears. This full-bodied, powerful wine possesses good acidity and tremendous purity as well as depth. It is impossible to predict how these wines will age (some last for 30-40 years without oxidation, whereas others tend to oxidize quickly), but the 2007 is a sumptuous example of a white Rayas Chateauneuf du Pape. It is one of the most limited cuvees of the appellation as fewer than 400 cases are produced in a given vintage.2007 may be Emmanuel Reynaud’s greatest vintage since he took over the management of this estate when his uncle, Jacques Reynaud, died in 1997.Importer: Martine’s Wines, Novato, CA; tel. (415) 883-0400

The stunning 2006 Rayas Chateauneuf du Pape Blanc possesses aromas of acacia flowers, honeysuckle, melon, quince, and orange marmalade. Amazingly, this brilliant example of white Chateauneuf du Pape should last for 10-20 years.. After going through a transitional period after Jacques Reynaud died in 1997, it is safe to say that his nephew, Emmanuel Reynaud, has returned this venerable estate to its previous level of high quality. While Chateauneuf du Pape is a warm appellation, Rayas is situated in a cool micro-climate, and is undoubtedly not an easy property to maintain. It is also known for its sandy soils, which are in total contrast to the rock-strewn plateau a half mile to the east, west, and south. Two utterly profound Rayas Chateauneuf du Papes have been produced recently, the 2005 and 2007. 2007 is a superb vintage at Chateau RayasImporter: Martine’s Wines, Novato, CA; tel. (415) 883-0400