Extraordinarily concentrated in blackberries, blueberries and black currants. So strongly sweet in fruit and oak, it’s almost undrinkable now, tasting like a melted dessert tart. Yet the minerality, tannins and overall structural integrity strongly suggest ageability. Cellar this young wine until at least 2014. ——S.H.(12/31/2011)—— 92

Here’s one for the cellar, not just because the tannins are so aggressive, but because the wine is so balanced. With alcohol only 13.8%, it’s dry and rich in black currant fruit, almost a throwback to the Napa Cabernets of old that aged so well. It possesses a dry, elegant sophistication that stands in deliberate contrast to today’s gooey, sweet style. Best 2009–2015, if not longer, with proper cellaring.——S.H.(12/15/2007)—— 92

Dry and tannic, a real mountain wine that’s tight and astringent now, but impeccably structured for the long haul. It has deep flavors of blackberries and plums, with a spiciness throughout, and needs time. Best 2007–2011.——S.H.(9/1/2006)—— 90