All whole-cluster fruit from a single parcel of old Grenache, the 2016 Chateauneuf du Pape les Clavelles boasts fascinating notes of cedar, due to its élevage in small oak, ripe cherries and strawberries, resinous herbs and dried spices. For a full-bodied wine, it's remarkably light on its feet and elegant, framed by silky tannins and a lingering, intense finish redolent of strawberries, star anise and allspice. This bottling has next to no track record (the first vintage was 2015), so it remains to be seen how long and well it will age, but I feel safe in suggesting at least a decade of drinkability.

From a single south-facing block of Grenache within La Crau Sud, the 2015 Chateauneuf du Pape les Clavelles was produced in tiny quantities (six 228-liter barrels). All whole cluster and all new oak, it shows neither to excess, instead delivering an almost crystalline rendering of Grenache, starting with charming aromas of citrus blossom, dried spices and pomegranate. It's medium to full-bodied but seems lighter than that, framed by delicate, silky tannins that linger elegantly on the tremendously long finish.