The “S” stands for Syrah, a word prohibited from appearing on the label thanks to arcane French regulations. But one whiff erases any doubt on that point. The effusive blueberry aromas feature grace notes of pepper and spring flowers; the mouthfeel is rich and layered. Supple tannins coat the crevices of the mouth without turning bitter or astringent, and the licorice-tinged finish lingers a long time. ——J.C.(11/15/2002)—— 90