Schleret’s 2000 Gewurztraminer Selection de Grains Nobles smells scintillatingly of brown spices, honey, and high-toned mint and rose petal essences. Possessed of a strikingly buttery texture, this caressingly spreads honey, concentrated herbal essences, and rose water across the palate. Yet, the flavors are very clear and the overall effect delicate and refined: one of those little miracles that were possible in this vintage. The sweetness here – while measurably high – is not obvious or obtrusive, and cooling essence of mint and rose with hints of smoked meat come through in the long finish. Charles Schleret (who founded his small, eponymous domaine in the 1950s) may be signaling that he is near retirement, but little had changed since I last visited him nearly fifteen years ago including his enthusiasm, the generally high quality, the style (save for a tad more residual sugar) and simple hierarchy of his wines, their leisurely pace of release, or the large apron he wears over top of a jacket and tie. It is hard here not to succumb to nostalgia, and to become more than a little peeved in recognition of how rare Alsace wine with such versatility, modesty, simple labeling (!) and effortless grace has nowadays become. All this praise aside (and I tasted a range of older wines as well on this occasion) numerous Schleret 2004s (which are currently on the market) were obscured by an overtly milky cast as a byproduct of their malo-lactic fermentations.Importer: Rosenthal Wine Merchant, Pine Plains, NY; tel. (800) 910 1990

The 1994 Gewurztraminer Herrenweg Selection de Grains Nobles is frightfully expensive, but wow, what intense fruit this viscous, high octane, sweet, massive example of dessert wine exhibits. Although unformed, it is thrilling to smell and taste. It should evolve for 30+ years.Except among knowledgeable insiders, readers are not likely to hear the name Charles Schleret compared to the likes of Colette Faller's Domaine Weinbach or Domaine Zind-Humbrecht. Although Schleret is a low profile producer, his wines are unquestionably exquisite, as evidenced by the 1994s reviewed in this segment.Importer: Neal Rosenthal. His selections can be purchased at his retail shop in Manhattan (tel. 212-249-6650 and fax 212-744-3354). His address is P.O. Box 658, Route 83, Shekomeko, NY 12567; telephone 800-910-1990.