Charles Schleret Gewurztraminer Herrenweg, Alsace, France

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Understated aromas of rose petal, cinnamon, and low-toned coffee-mocha scent Schleret’s 2005 Gewurztraminer Herrenweg. Inner-mouth rose petal and discrete smokiness inform a soft but rather delicate palate and lead to a finish a bit dominated by its sweetness. His 2000s are Schleret’s most recent nobly sweet releases. Charles Schleret (who founded his small, eponymous domaine in the 1950s) may be signaling that he is near retirement, but little had changed since I last visited him nearly fifteen years ago including his enthusiasm, the generally high quality, the style (save for a tad more residual sugar) and simple hierarchy of his wines, their leisurely pace of release, or the large apron he wears over top of a jacket and tie. It is hard here not to succumb to nostalgia, and to become more than a little peeved in recognition of how rare Alsace wine with such versatility, modesty, simple labeling (!) and effortless grace has nowadays become. All this praise aside (and I tasted a range of older wines as well on this occasion) numerous Schleret 2004s (which are currently on the market) were obscured by an overtly milky cast as a byproduct of their malo-lactic fermentations.Importer: Rosenthal Wine Merchant, Pine Plains, NY; tel. (800) 910 1990

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The three Gewurztraminer cuvees begin with a dry 1995 Herrenweg, move up to the off-dry Herrenweg Cuvee Speciale, and finish with the off-dry, fuller-bodied, and more concentrated Herrenweg Cuvee Exceptionelle. The regular bottling of 1995 Gewurztraminer Herrenweg displays terrific rose petal, honeyed grapefruit, and pineapple-like fruit in both its aromatics and flavors. Powerful, rich, and dry, it should drink well for 5-8+ years.Much like the Domaine Burn, Charles Schleret rarely receives the recognition he deserves, inexplicable in view of the extraordinary wine quality that routinely emerges from this estate. The 1995 offerings are gorgeous wines that unquestionably deserve more attention.Importer: Neal Rosenthal, Select Vineyards, Shekomeko, NY; tel. (800) 910-1990

The 1994 Gewurztraminer Herrenweg displays a classic, ostentatious, flamboyant Gewurztraminer rose petal, lychee nut, honeyed pineapple, peppery bouquet. Full-bodied, dry, and spectacularly rich and pure, it is a glitzy Gewurztraminer for drinking over the next decade.Except among knowledgeable insiders, readers are not likely to hear the name Charles Schleret compared to the likes of Colette Faller's Domaine Weinbach or Domaine Zind-Humbrecht. Although Schleret is a low profile producer, his wines are unquestionably exquisite, as evidenced by the 1994s reviewed in this segment.Importer: Neal Rosenthal. His selections can be purchased at his retail shop in Manhattan (tel. 212-249-6650 and fax 212-744-3354). His address is P.O. Box 658, Route 83, Shekomeko, NY 12567; telephone 800-910-1990.

If you like an intense bouquet of rose petals and honeyed fruits, check out Schleret's 1992 Gewurztraminer Herrenweg. It contains all the spice one could want from this varietal, as well as impressive extraction and precision, yet it comes across as medium-bodied and surprisingly fresh and lively for a Gewurztraminer of such intensity. It should drink well for a decade.Because of Charles Schleret's low profile, he is not nearly as well-known as Madame Faller of Domaine Weinbach or the Humbrecht family of Domaine Zind-Humbrecht. However, Schleret's wines can be superb. One would not expect such richness and intensity from the 1992 vintage, but Schleret has performed admirably.Importer: Select Vineyards, Neal Rosenthal, New York, NY.