It takes charm, as in luck, to find good Charmes-Chambertin. But this is one of the good ones, a big, ripe, dense wine that is just setting out on a slow road of aging. Already, though, the fruit is doing its work, showing black plum skin flavors, while the tannins hold everything together. Give it 5–10 years. ——R.V.(3/1/2007)—— 93