It’s hard to find anything Castello Monaci isn’t doing well these days. The 2009 Salento Simera, a blend of Chardonnay and Verdeca, impresses for its overall balance and well-delineated fruit. Puglian whites are rarely exciting, but the Simera is about as good as it gets, particularly at this price point. Anticipated maturity: 2010-2012. Importer: Frederick Wildman and Sons Ltd, New York, NY; tel. (212) 355-0700

Drying tones of neutral mineral and stone fruit describe the nose of this luminous blend of Chardonnay and Verdeca. You’ll get background notes of dried hay and natural rubber that add character and the wine tastes smooth and supple to the end.——M.L.(10/1/2008)—— 86