A big, tough, resilient Pinot Noir, hefty in tannins and bone dry. Not showing much delicacy now, but it sure is complex, offering waves of wild cherries, tobacco, cola, smoked meat, herbs and spices. Purists will criticize it for being too Rhone-like. Give it a decant and drink over the next few years.——S.H.(10/1/2011)—— 91