The best Alexander Valley Chardonnays, such as this, show flamboyant tropical flavors. Capture’s ’09 shows ripe, extravagant pineapple, mango, papaya, nectarine and lime fruit, with a grilled quality baked into a pastry dessert. It’s a big wine framed by fine acidity. The oak applique is just about perfect. ——S.H.(3/1/2011)—— 92