The 2000 Capannelle, a cask-aged Sangiovese, resembles a Chianti Classico even if it is not marketed as such. Dark garnet in color and with a nose of red currants and wild cherries, leather and truffles, its tannins are still slightly backward and the acidity detectable in the finish. It will drink best between 2007 and 2012. Importer: Empson, USA, Alexandria, VA; tel. (703) 684-0900

The 1999 Capannelle is only marginally better than the Chianti Classico Riserva, with some additional tar and liquorice on the nose and a bit more roundness and volume on the palate, but this is high-altitude wine and a certain austere elegance is part of the house style. Importer: Empson, USA, Alexandria, VA; tel. (703) 684-0900

The 1997 Capannelle (100% Sangiovese aged 20 months in barrel) boasts a dense ruby/purple color as well as a complex, Bordeaux-like nose of cedar, graphite, saddle leather, red cherries, and currants. Spicy and dense, with medium body, plenty of structure, good acidity, and a firm finish, it requires additional time in bottle. Anticipated maturity: 2006-2016. This is a formidable offering for patient connoisseurs. Importer: Empson, USA, Alexandria, VA; tel. (703) 684-0900

The current release, the 1995 Capannelle (100% Sangiovese), is a tightly-knit, extremely promising, deep ruby-colored offering with a sweet nose of saddle leather, toast, cherry and currant fruit as well as a whiff of flowers. Deep, rich, textured, and moderately tannic, it requires another 1-2 years of cellaring; it should keep for 15+. Importer: Neil Empson, Empson, USA, Alexandria, VA; tel. (703) 684-0900