The 2014 Santenay 1Er Cru Clos Rousseau has a perfumed, redcurrant and wild strawberry bouquet with an attractive earthiness to it. The palate is medium-bodied with crisp tannin, a little chalky in the mouth with a fresh, crisp, easy drinking, brambly finish. Rustic but charming.

The 2013 Santenay 1er Cru Clos Rousseau has a correct and straitlaced bouquet that gradually opens with time. The palate is medium-bodied with a candied core of red cherry and red currant fruit, a satisfying citric thread and a poised, if slightly abrupt, finish. Very fine.

The 2009 Santenay Clos Rousseau is taut and vibrant, with nicely nuanced layers of menthol and flowers that add complexity to the high-toned fruit. Sweet spices linger in the silky, beautifully articulated finish. The vines in this parcel are 70 years old. Anticipated maturity: 2012-2022. I was very impressed with the wines I tasted at Camille Giroud. While top selections are hugely successful, readers should also pay attention to the village wines, which deliver plenty of character at accessible prices. Most of the wines are made from purchased fruit sourced from growers with whom the winery has long term relationships. The harvest took place between the 8th and 15th of September. Sugar levels were higher than in 2005. Macerations were on the long side in 2009, and ranged from 19-24 days versus the more typical 12-17. Most of the wines were made from 100% destemmed fruit, although a few selections - the Corton-Rognets and Chambertin in particular - saw some whole bunches. Malos were completed between February and April 2010 and the wines were not racked during their aging. Bottling began just after harvest 2010 for some of the early maturing reds, but most of the wines were still in barrel at the time of my visit in late February, with the exception of the Grands Crus, most of which had been racked into steel and were awaiting bottling towards the end of March. A Becky Wasserman Selection, Le Serbet, various American importers, including: Willette Wines, NJ; tel. (917) 400-2238; Veritas Imports, Beverly Hills, CA; tel. (310) 205-3803; Toepfer Imports LLC, CO; tel. (303) 818-7640