From the lieu-dit of Chalandains and with 30% whole cluster fruit, the 2012 Vosne-Romanee Village has a pretty raspberry and dark plum bouquet with faint mineral scents. The palate is medium-bodied with a fine structure, the stem addition lending a little more complexity than I anticipated for a Village Cru, with impressive race and breeding on the finish. This is a well-crafted wine punching above its weight. Maison Camille Giroud is one of Burgundy’s stalwarts that can trace its roots back to 1886. I became acquainted with their wines in the 1990s and to be truthful they languished behind their peers: rather rustic fare that might have been acceptable in the 1970s, but not any longer. When a group of investors, including Ann Colgin and Joe Wender, bought Camille Giroud in 2002, they sought a young, talented winemaker to take the negociant by the scruff of the neck and kick-start a renaissance. That is exactly what happened when David Croix was hired as regisseur in 2005. Most of the fruit is contracted, though like Albert Bichot across the road, David prefers not to distinguish them from the two crus that are owned by the estate. David manages the vineyards and has summarized his policy: one contracted grower per cru in order to articulate a sense of place. “The wines from Camille Giroud tend to be more delicate than Domaine des Croix,” David explained, “and need less barrel aging. They tend to show red fruit, more cherries than my own wines.” In 2012, there are far fewer crus to choose from since yields were down 50% and some significant contracts, the likes of Latricieres-Chambertin and Corton Clos des Roi, were cancelled in their entirety since there was no fruit, which after all is helpful if you want to make wine. Still, what David Croix has managed to eke out from a challenging season is worth seeking out: refined and feminine wines that make up in freshness what might be missing in complexity. Plus they succeed in expressing their terroir as David always intends. Importer: Becky Wasserman Selections (Le Serbet) and through various US importers (see www.leserbet.com for full list.)

The 2010 Vosne-Romanee caresses the palate with layers of deeply spiced dark red fruit, menthol and licorice. This is a generous, inviting 2010 that is highly appealing, even today. I very much like its energy and finesse, especially at this level. The Vosne is made from a parcel in Les Chalandins, in Flagey. Anticipated maturity: 2014-2022. Winemaker David Croix describes 2010 as being similar to 2002, but with more tension. The harvest started on September 23. About two-thirds of the wines were lightly chaptalized. None of these wines had been racked at the time of my visit in November 2011. Giroud fans will note the addition of two new Volnays to the lineup. I will report on the maison’s 2009s in the April issue. A Becky Wasserman Selection, Le Serbet, various American importers, including Grand Cru Selections, New York, NY; tel. (212) 974-2500; Veritas Imports, Beverly Hills, CA; tel. (310) 205-3803; Toepfer Imports LLC, CO; tel. (303) 818-7640

The 2009 Vosne-Romanee is dark, rich and fleshy. It expresses tons of Vosne character in a generous, open style that is immensely appealing. Juicy dark cherries, spices and menthol come together effortlessly in this sumptuous Vosne. The style is very 2009, yet there is quite a bit of freshness as well. This gorgeous wine is a clear overachiever in 2009. Anticipated maturity: 2012-2019. A Becky Wasserman Selection, Le Serbet, various American importers, including: Grand Cru Selections, New York, NY; tel. (212) 974-2500; Veritas Imports, Beverly Hills, CA; tel. (310) 205-3803; Toepfer Imports LLC, CO; tel. (303) 818-7640

From the Chalandins vineyard – just south of Clos Vougeot – and vinified with 40% clusters and stems (whereas most wines in this collection were fully de-stemmed) the Camille Giroud 2008 Vosne-Romanee – tasted from tank – smells of hedge flowers, cassis, blackberry, fresh ginger, cinnamon, and Latakia tobacco. Palate-staining, exuberantly bright, and almost sizzling in its tactile spiciness, this finishes with vibratory intensity and length remarkable for village-level. It should be worth savoring for at least the next 6-8 years. David Croix’s 2008 Camille Giroud collection was picked late; slow to evolve; and for the most part had not been bottled when I tasted in April. Although I missed out on a couple of wines in this year’s collection, the line-up from Camille Giroud was also smaller than in previous years. (I have not tasted the 2007s here. For details about the recent revival of Camille Giroud and about David Croix’s approach, readers are referred to reports in issues 160 and 170 respectively; and for reports on Croix’s own domaine, see under Domaine des Croix.) A Becky Wasserman Selection, Le Serbet (various importers); fax 011-333-80-24-29-70

From vines in Mazieres – below Les Suchots and close to Clos Vougeot – the Camille Giroud 2006 Vosne-Romanee smells alluringly of violet, narcissus, musk, and hints of black fruits and clean, raw meat. Its complexity and intrigue go well beyond what one expects from a village wine even of this celebrated commune, and if this is texturally rather spare and firm, it still fulfills its multifarious promise in a long, thought- and saliva-provoking finish. Based on its performance in tank, I would anticipate its' being fascinating to follow for at least 3-4 years, but as with many of those 2006s that are not notably fleshly, I would be cautious about making any longer-run plans. David Croix racked his 2006s into tank earlier than normal in an attempt to preserve the maximum of fruit. (For details about the recent revival of Camille Giroud and about David Croix's approach, readers are referred to reports in issues 160 and 170 respectively. A Gevrey-Chambertin En Champs was too reduced from tank when I last tasted it to adequately access, but it definitely displayed potential and reflected its old vines of a tiny-berried selection; while a Clos Vougeot from purchased fruit was stuck in protracted malo.) A Becky Wasserman Selection, Le Serbet (various importers); fax 011-333-80-24-29-70