Some producer in Carneros didn’t want the wine that went into this negociant’s ‘07 Syrah, to judge by its quality. Lucky for Cameron Hughes. It’s a fine wine, full-bodied and dry, with spicy flavors of currants, teriaki beef, black pepper and cola, with a bracing minerality that grounds the richness. Could be more concentrated, but it's a very great value.——S.H.(12/31/2010)—— 87