This is the kind of wine people call “cocktail”: very dry and a little tart, ultracrisp and clean, and with the lemon-and-lime flavors that are palate wake-up calls. Some riper, fuller peach flavors emerge, but it turns citrusy and dry again on the finish. Sure, it’s simple, but it’s good. ——S.H.(8/1/2001)—— 85