For its introductory Washington Cabernet Sauvignon, Buried Cane (a new brand from Vintage New World) seems to have modeled itself on a modest Bordeaux. Astringent, smoky and showing a fair amount of green tannin, this dry and herbal wine has the muscle to show well with grilled meats, burgers, even steak. On its own, it’s a bit tiring, with a lot of herbal character.——P.G.(3/1/2009)—— 85