A step up, the 2012 Chateauneuf du Pape Secret de Leonce, which was formerly known as their Vieilles Vignes and is now named after Laurent’s Grandfather, is a blend of 85% Grenache, 10% Syrah and 5% Mourvedre that was aged all in barrel. Coming all from the Bois Dauphin and Sainte Vierge terroirs, it displays serious amounts of black fruits, wild herbs, olive and licorice as well as a medium to full-bodied, seamless and elegant profile on the palate. Finesse is the name of the game here, yet it doesn’t lack for concentration or richness either. Enjoy it over the coming decade or more. Drink now-2023. This serious estate is run by Laurent Brotte, with consulting help from Philippe Cambie. The wines offer high quality across the board and can represent fantastic values. Various American importers including Chrissa Imports, South San Francisco, CA; tel. (650) 877-8460; Opici Imports, Glen Rock, NJ; tel. (201) 689-3256; Margaux and Associates Fine Wines and Spirits, Dallas, TX; tel. (214) 380-1731; and Transat Trade, Gardena, CA; tel. (310) 516-6799