Readers looking for a steely, mineral-laced, minimally oaked white wine should check out the 2007 Chardonnay Savoy Vineyard. Crisp, elegant, candied lemon, and orange rind characteristics intermixed with spring flower blossom, cold steel, and crushed rock notes give this wine a Chablis-like character. It is medium-bodied and loaded with flavor, displaying superb purity, length, and balance. This superb white winemaking estate also knows a thing or two about fashioning delicate, feminine-styled Pinot Noirs. I was surprised to learn that it was purchased by Cliff Lede last year, and I was happy to see that the 2008s, which can be somewhat problematic in Anderson Valley because of all the wild fires and resulting smoke damage, were not affected. I did not have the opportunity to taste Breggo Cellars’ Sauvignon Blanc (usually one of the finest made in California), but I did taste their two cuvees of Syrah, the 2007 Syrah Alder Springs and 2007 Syrah, both of which were relatively average in quality.Tel. (707) 895-9589

This is a strong Chardonnay. Strong in ripe fruit, in acidity and in oak. It offers massive waves of grilled pineapples, buttered toast, vanilla and tangy minerals. A bit overbearing now, but could benefit from a few years in the cellar. ——S.H.(12/1/2009)—— 90