Bodegas Iturrialde, located near the city of Bilbao, has turned out a first-class 2010 Gorka Izagirre. It offers up a fragrant mineral and melon nose along with hints of saline and citrus. On the palate a bit of trapped CO2 enlivens the mouth-feel of this crisp, dry, well-balanced offering that calls out for raw oysters.Importer: Aviva Vino, New York, NY; Tel. (212) 244-4495

The 2008 Gorka Izagirre is a blend of two indigenous Txakoli grapes raised in tank sur lie with batonnage for 2 months. Light straw-colored, it offers an expressive nose of mineral, sea-salt, floral notes, and citrus. Dry, crisp, and refreshing, it demands raw oysters. Drink it over the next 12-18 months. Importer: Aviva Vino, New York, NY; tel. (212) 244-4495