Bernard Morey et Fils Bourgogne Blanc, Burgundy, France

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It continues to be rare to find anything less than exciting from Bernard Morey, a red-cheeked vigneron with a fifties pompadour haircut. His wines are delicious in off years, so it is not surprising he has hit the bull's eye with the 1992s. Although these offerings had just been bottled when I tasted them, they were still immensely impressive wines.The 1992 Bourgogne Blanc-Chardonnay is a ripe, tasty, mouthfilling, fruity wine. Importer: Vineyard Brands (Robert Haas), Chester, VT.