Pale to medium ruby-purple colored, the 2015 Pinot Noir le Pre du Col Vineyard is a little youthfully mute, with fragrant notes of red roses and potpourri over a core of rhubarb, pomegranate and raspberry leaves, plus a waft of dried herbs. Light to medium-bodied, it delivers loads of earthy/savory red berry intensity with a chewy backbone and lively finish.

Pale to medium ruby-purple colored, the 2014 Pinot Noir le Pre du Col Vineyard has pretty rose hip tea and garrigue notes with underlying cranberry, Bing cherry, bay leaves and damp earth notes. Medium-bodied and finely crafted in the mouth, it has a lovely frame of very fine tannins and plenty of freshness, finishing long and earthy.

The 2013 Pinot Noir le Pre du Col Vineyard, which comes from biodynamically farmed vines planted in 2005, includes a little whole cluster fruit and around 10% new oak. I like the nose here: dark berries, cloves, bay leaf and a touch of iodine all nicely defined. The palate is medium-bodied with juicy ripe tannin and a fine bead of acidity. It probably does not quite deliver the complexity of the nose, but there is certainly respectable weight, and quite firm tannin with a steely, slightly terse finish that tapers away just a little too swiftly for my liking.

The 2012 Pinot Noir le Pre du Col Vineyard comes from a vineyard that Josh said surprises him every year, perhaps because it used to be in a "teenage state." It has an aversion to new oak and so none is used here. There is certainly more fruit intensity on the nose, the fruit spectrum veering more toward red fruit with hints of wild mushroom coming through with aeration. The palate is medium-bodied with crisp tannins, fine tension and a slight candied note that lends the finish more sweetness than say the Gregory Ranch of Shea Vineyard '12s. It clams up a little on the finish, so give this a year in bottle just to fully integrate. Very fine.

The 2009 Pinot Noir Le Pre du Col Vineyard is a young site planted in 2006, 2007, and 2008. Bergstrom has a 30-year lease on the vineyard and does the farming. It is a spicy, savory, pleasurable offering but ultimately superficial. Balanced and lengthy, it shows plenty of promise for when the vineyard acquires some age. Josh Bergstrom now has 5 estate vineyards encompassing 85 acres in 5 AVAs. He has decided to stop working with Riesling (despite the high quality) and focus entirely on Chardonnay in his white wine program. Tel. (503) 554-0463; www.bergstromwinery.com