The 2017 Chardonnay Sanford & Benedict Vineyard, aged in one-third new oak, features orange blossom, lime peel, saline and white peach scents. The light to medium-bodied palate gives toasty fruits with a wicked mineral line, great texture and zesty acidity, finishing long and textured. 300 cases produced.

All of these latest Chardonnays from winemaker Jim Clendenen are outstanding. Starting out, the 2014 Chardonnay Sanford & Benedict Vineyard offers classic notes of cream corn, sautéed apple, white peach and flowers, with building richness and fabulous purity on the palate. Barrel-fermented and aged 20 months in 50% new French oak, it should have a decade of longevity.

In contrast, the 2012 Chardonnay Sanford & Benedict (aged 18 months in 50% new oak) is a beautiful wine that offers nicely integrated oak nuances in its ripe apple, citrus, brioche and white flower-driven bouquet. Medium-bodied, supple and pure, with excellent definition and clarity, it should drink nicely for 5-6 years. Tel. (805) 937-9801; www.aubonclimat.com

Beautiful, with less noticeable oak, the 2010 Chardonnay Sanford & Benedict Vineyard offers beautiful typicity with ripe apple, mineral, toasted nut and hints of flowers to go with a fresh, lively and awesomely pure and detailed palate. Clean, elegant and with building richness, it has a layered, multi-dimensional palate feel, great acidity and a focused finish. Classy all the way, it’s a great Chardonnay! Enjoy it over the coming 4-5 years, although it will probably evolve gracefully after that as well. Drink now-2018+. Tel. (805) 963-7999; www.aubonclimat.com

The 2008 Chardonnay Sanford & Benedict Vineyard Historical Vineyards Collection emerges from a plot planted in 1972. It shows plenty of intensity but comes across as a touch heavy, with less of the drive and focus of the finest whites in this lineup. The wine was fermented and aged for 12 months on its lees in 29% new barrels. This is an attractive, sexy style best suited to near-term drinking. Anticipated maturity: 2012-2017. Jim Clendenen is one of the pioneers of the Central Coast. At their best, his wines capture striking expressions of some of the region’s top sites deeply influenced by a huge passion and admiration for the great wines of Burgundy.Tel. (805) 937-9801; www.aubonclimat.com