The finest of the 1997 Pinot Noirs is the 1997 Pinot Noir Rosemary's Vineyard. Revealing outstanding potential, it possesses a super ruby/purple color, as well as excellent black raspberry and cherry aromatics intermixed with pain grille. Medium-bodied, extremely pure, and well-knit, this Pinot Noir should reach full maturity in 1-2 years, and last for 8-10.For the second consecutive vintage, I had mixed emotions about Au Bon Climat's Pinot Noirs. The 1996s were too high in acidity and insufficiently deep to merit recommendation. The 1997s possess sweeter fruit, more ripeness, and less annoying acidity than the 1996s.Major changes are planned for Jim Clendenen's Au Bon Climat. Clendenen, one of the most colorful winemakers in California, has purchased 70 acres and begun to plant a tightly-spaced Pinot Noir vineyard from Dijon clones. This will insure that Clendenen is not dependent on purchased fruit. Tel. (805) 937-9801.