A welcome trend in Oregon is making Pinot Noir at moderate alcohol levels—here it’s 13.5%. This enhances the wine’s details, beginning with the aromas. Cola and clove, licorice and toffee scents promise a tasty bottle that turns out to be bursting with black berries, black cherries, black currant and even black tea flavors. ——P.G.(6/1/2010)—— 91