Initially, the 2000 Pinot Noir Poplar Vineyard's bouquet was reminiscent of fish, with a hint of excess sulphur. That quickly blew off to reveal scents of beet roots, cola, black cherries, and underbrush. It is dense and medium-bodied, with sweet fruit and a long finish. This is a bigger, more structured and denser effort than the Carneros cuvee. It should last for a decade. I have mixed emotions concerning the bouquet, thus the question mark.From a higher acid, cooler vintage, the 2000 is a French-styled offering. Readers who find California wines too overtly fruity, with insufficient amounts of natural acidity, will be shocked by the acid profiles in many 2000 California wines ... they are very French tasting. Under owner/winermaker Ken Bernard's (he apprenticed at Domaine Carneros and Truchard before starting his own winery) capable hands, Ancien is producing complex, elegant wines that merit attention.Tel. (707) 255-3908