Alvaro Castro Tinto (Quinta Da Pellada)

點(diǎn)擊次數(shù)：2714

The 2008 TINTO “QUINTA DA PELLADA” (not to be confused with the blended, regular Tinto, this one has a round shouldered bottle and “Quinta da Pellada” on the front in big letters) is 45% Touriga Nacional, 20% TInta Roriz, 10% Jaen and the rest an old vines field blend, aged for 24 months in French oak. Not surprisingly, given the time in oak, the first impression here is oak, a touch of licorice and vanilla. Yet, it is nowhere near as prominent as one might think. That doesn’t last long as the dominant impression. This is a powerful yet balanced wine built for the long haul with a serious backbone and fine acidity. The steely notes, good acidity and the fruit continuously pop up. It has a feeling of grace and elegance despite its underlying power, a beautifully constructed mid-palate and the promise of harmony to come. If you are an oak-a-phobe, I would bet that you will still like this—just not now. This wine should integrate its oak, not to mention its other disjointed parts at the moment, and come together brilliantly. You will need to show a little patience there. Come back in 5-7 years. You will be rewarded. Drink 2013-2028. On most short lists to be nominated as the finest producer in his region, Castro makes a wide variety of wines that have two things in common—they have character and they tend to age well. In the USA, hardly anyone knows who he is—or even what Dao is. In Portugal, he is a cult-ish winemaker and people recognize the enormous potential in this old region. It is another example, unfortunately, of how a simple fact seems to control some realities—if his labels said “Burgundy” instead of “Dao,” people would no doubt be lining up. Note: Some of Castro’s wines, like the regular Tinto, are technically made under the formal producer name of Quinta da Pellada, although most, like the Reservas, prominently advertise his own name. Some (like the Reserva Tinto) do both. For convenience, they have all been grouped here. In Portuguese fashion, the brand (like “PAPE”) or the Quinta (when it is actually a single vineyard wine and not used just as a producer name) often subsumes the producer name in any event.Importer: Laurel Importers, Bristol, R.I.; tel: (401) 396-9661