I was impressed with the 1995 Sauvignon de St.-Bris (made from 40-year old vines). Its subtle melon, fig, and mineral-scented nose is followed by citrusy, crisp flavors, medium body, and a dry, refreshing, zesty finish. It should drink well for 1-2 years.The one thing that stands out in the wines reviewed in this segment is their purity, freshness, and focus. Each wine, whether it is the Bourgogne Aligote, Sauvignon Blanc, or Chablis, possesses a distinctive minerality, elegance, and sense of balance. They are not overblown, big wines, nor are they cunningly wooded to seduce tasters. What they offer are gobs of fresh, lively fruit and character.North Berkeley Wines, Berkeley, CA; tel. (510) 848-8910 and (800) 266-6585; fax (510) 848-0841