The 2009 Merlot Reserve is all Merlot from 1998 plantings in the Kerem Ben-Zimra area, aged for 20 months in French oak. This sharp and earthy Merlot has some juicy fruit, but it is very much on the intellectual side, but for that tinge of oak. Bright and elegant, it has some charm, some persistence on the finish and a slight weedy note. It will be best in the early going. Drink now-2016. Note that the 2007s are current – they were just submitted by the winery. Some of them received extended oak aging, which may partly account for their late submission.Importer: Royal Wine Corp., Bayonne, N.J.; tel: (718) 534-0118

The 2006 MERLOT RESERVE, like Alexander’s ‘06 Syrah and ‘06 Gaston reviewed this issue, is an elegantly wrought wine. It does not have a lot of depth, but it has a bright, graceful and lively feel, with a tannic kick that provides some grip and assertiveness. There is a bit of oak-tinged flavor on the finish. Far more on the Bordeaux side of the scale than California, this wine is persistent, if light in the mid-palate, and quite charming. Drink now-2015. Alexander is an under-the-radar pick for those looking beyond the most familiar Israeli names. “The Great” series is a premium, late released wine. The latest release of that brand is the 2005 Cabernet; the 2006 will not be released until next year. The Grand Reserve is one step above it—late released and produced only in exceptional years. Although Israeli wines as a group provide relatively few bargains, there are some decent price to quality ratios here for the low and mid-level wines. Many will be about as happy with the regular Reserves as with the upper level wines. More or less unknown in the USA due to its lack of an importer until recently, this winery has some potential. Not all of these may be available quite yet. Prices given are estimates of what they will be in the marketplace—they may yet change.Importer: Bayfield Importing, Long Island City, N.Y.; tel: (718) 482-0200.