Alemany i Corrio Principia Mathematica, Penedes, Spain

阿萊曼尼·科里奧酒莊數(shù)學(xué)原理白葡萄酒

點(diǎn)擊次數(shù)：684

The white 2021 Principia Mathematica was produced with Xarel.lo from a 2.8-hectare vineyard planted 55 years ago and wants to show the variety and zone with no makeup. This is only 12.3% alcohol and comes through as fresh, sharp and floral, with citrus notes; it's very drinkable and reflects a cool vintage with freshness like no vintage I remember. It's pure, clean and symmetric, with a pH of 3.2 (after malolactic!). The finest Principia Mathematica ever! 8,000 bottles produced. It was bottled in April 2022.

The just-bottled 2018 Principia Mathematica felt closed and tight. It had been in bottle for only one month when I tasted it, and winemaker and owner Laurent Corrio told me that he thinks they need at least six months in bottle to be expressive. But they sell very quickly, and very few people keep the bottles, which are usually drunk quite young. There's a little bit more of everything here compared with the 2017, more depth and complexity and especially very good freshness. It probably didn't go through malolactic fermentation, though they let the wines get on with it if it happens; they don't prevent the wines from going through malolactic, but they don't force it either. The years with more acidity tend not to do malolactic, and in riper years, it might do it. This follows the line of the 2016, perhaps with more contained ripeness. 9,000 bottles were filled in May 2019.

The grapes for the 2017 Principia Mathematica were harvested earlier than ever, but the wine shows good freshness and a varietal nose with character and very integrated oak. This was bottled with very little sulfur and is clean and expressive. It has a soft and tender palate, with integrated acidity (there is less acidity than in 2016). In 2017, it went 100% through malolactic, which has resulted in a slightly creamier and rounder palate that is polished, with a tasty, almost salty finish. 8,000 bottles produced. It was bottled in April 2018.

2016 was also a dry and warm year with an early harvest, and the white 2016 Principia Mathematica is just above 12% alcohol, making it a light and refreshing varietal white, which is the aim here. This is produced with Xarello grapes from a 2.8-hectare plot planted 50 years ago on clay and limestone soils with good water retention. The vines are organically farmed, and the hand-harvested grapes were pressed directly. Eighty percent of the juice fermented in 700-liter oak foudres with natural yeasts for two months and then aged with lees, without racking, in those barrels for eight months; the remaining 20% saw the same process but was fermented in 228-liter barrels and a small stainless steel tank and kept with fine lees in the tank. I found it to be terrific, with great balance and elegance, clean, delineated and with superb purity. Even though it's young, it shows very good complexity and nuance. This could very well be the finest vintage of this bottling. Great value too. 8,000 bottles were filled in April 2017.

The 2015 Principia Mathematica is pure head-pruned Xarello from a 50-year-old, 2.8 hectare plot on limestone-rich soils that was put to ferment in 700-liter oak foudre with indigenous yeasts, with 20% of the volume fermented in 228-liter barriques and a small stainless steel tank. It was kept in contact with the lees for eight months and bottled in April 2006. This was a very dry and early harvest and the wines have a softer profile, very fruit-driven with aromas of white flowers, too; it is subtle, aromatic, elegant, with no trace of oak whatsoever, getting more balsamic with time in the glass, developing notes of fennel and aniseed. The palate has great balance with integrated acidity, there is good ripeness, with good volume. 7,000 bottles produced.