As it should, this reserve Syrah steps it up a couple of notches from the winery’s regular bottling. Dark, meaty, laden with tangy blue fruit flavors and lots of smoked ham and sage; this is a savory wine to, well, savor. It opens up nicely in the glass, layer upon layer, and finishes slowly with a balanced mix of fruit, earth, stem and tannin.——P.G.(11/1/2008)—— 89