The soft, attractive mildly yeasty nose leads into a pear-and-apple palate with shades of vanilla. The grapes for this wine come from vines that are at least 30 years old, and because of that there’s richness and depth not offered by most other cavas. On the finish, sublime notes of melon and papaya are present. This could be Torello’s most elegant cava. —M.S.——(12/31/2002)—— 89